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Barbecue aficionados all have their favorite method and region, not to mention the debate of dry-rub versus sauce. At Longhorn's Barbeque in Castaic, which opened in April 2009, it's all about the Texas-style dry-rub, with the meat cooked low and slow in a smoker. The results are delicious.
The mesquite-smoked brisket ($6.99 for a half pound or $8.99 as part of a BBQ plate with two sides, corn on the cob and bread) falls apart at the touch of a fork, its edges ringed with a spicy crust. Every so often, you'll hit a vein of luscious fat and the whole experience becomes transcendent.
"Our brisket is marinated for two days and smoked for 21 hours, the pulled pork for 16 hours. It's a slow process so once we run out, that's it. You have to come back tomorrow," said Xavier Pro, the owner of Longhorn's and a native of Texas. "It's different than anything else you find out here."
So is the décor. Think country fair meets Southern rock club, complete with a bit of Lynyrd Skynyrd playing in the background. There are more than a dozen picnic benches that Pro constructed with the help of family and friends, rustic wood creations finished off with a blowtorch and a matte coat of polyurethane for a slightly charred effect.
"It's just like back home," Pro said fondly. "In Texas it's all about the hospitality. It's supposed to be loud."
Metal faucets that double as paper towel holders poke out at the end of each bench while colorful Texas flags and metal wagon wheels add contrast to the brown walls, which boast bold black graffiti from enthusiastic patrons.
"I didn't have time to decorate, so I thought, why not let people write on the walls? There's nothing bad so far, it's all been good stuff. I guess the writing's on the wall," Pro said with a smile.
Longhorn's is a family affair, with recipes handed down from the generations. Sylvia Pro, Xavier's mother, is on hand in the kitchen, where everything is made from scratch, including a trio of barbecue sauces bubbling away in Crock Pots on the stainless steel counter: traditional, tangy mustard, and spicy. Customers help themselves to the sauce, as well as pickled jalapenos and other condiments, flatware and napkins, after placing an order at the counter; drinks are self-serve, too.
If you're hungry, waiting with all those tantalizing smells tormenting you can be torturous, but thankfully, service at Longhorn's is quick and friendly, turning around orders in the same amount of time as most fast-casual joints.
The pulled pork sandwich ($5.29 a la carte, $6.49 with one side, $7.40 with two) features a heaping helping of the tender meat infused with smoke on a toasted egg bun. Add a bit of sauce and you have a very satisfying meal in your hands.
Craving a bit of variety? Try the three mini-sandwich deal with one side ($6.49 for two for $3 a la carte) and choose from brisket, turkey breast, pulled pork, sausage or chicken breast on smaller versions of the toasted egg bun, an exceptional value.
While chicken breast can be dry at some restaurants, it's not here - instead it's succulent and rich. The sausage is taut and spicy, just the way it should be. Both are heavenly with a little sauce, especially the sausage paired with tangy mustard.
Side choices include barbecue beans, cowboy beans, sweet potatoes, creamed corn, cole slaw, potato salad, corn-on-the-cob, green beans, pasta salad, small garden salad, or bacon mac and cheese. The latter would feel right at home at a southern potluck - creamy, luxuriant, comforting, topped with crispy crumbles of bacon, which, let's face it, enhances just about anything it touches.
What's nice about the sides here is the freshness and attention to detail - corn on the cob so juicy it squirts when you bite into it, red-skinned potato salad with a piquant kick from mustard, onion and green and red bell pepper, the skin left on for texture.
Longhorn's coleslaw is a lightly dressed, finely shredded blend of cabbage, carrots, and celery that allows the quality of the vegetables to stand out, rather than be drowned under a gallon of mayo. While I'm admittedly not a fan of barbecue beans or creamed corn, I give the kitchen props for making its own instead of just opening up a can.
"These are all my mama's and grandpa's recipes, including the marinades and sauces. Just the processes alone are a lot for each meal, but we can't use anyone else's stuff," Pro said.
Family meals are a popular Longhorn's option and can feed from four to 10 people, starting at $30.99, dine-in or to-go. The restaurant is awaiting its beer and wine license and Pro is also excited about creating a pit patio in the future, with an open fire ring for customers to hang out by and an outdoor smoker so he can start cooking up tri-tips and whole chickens, Texas party-style.
Longhorn's recently opened a satellite restaurant at Six Flags Magic Mountain and Pro sees the potential for his restaurant's popularity as the equivalent of a respected regional burger chain.
"It's like In-N-Out. Where do you go for good barbecue? We want Longhorn's to be a household name. That's the plan," he said.
Longhorn's Barbeque, 28070 Hasley Canyon Road, Castaic. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Phone (661) 295-9170 or visit www.longhornsbbq.com.
