Though the weather might be a little iffy as you read this, we're really out of the wetter months in the SCV and into the mild weeks that attract so many people to live here.

However, in no time, and for a long time, it will be hot in these parts.

And though fall might be the best time to plant a tree, if a tree figures into your spring landscaping plans, it's time to get 'er done.
Melinda Butler, in nursery sales at Green Thumb International in Newhall, said, "Get your tree planted as soon as possible - before the heat comes."

You need to give your tree as much time as you can to get its roots established.

Choosing a tree
Green Thumb has a wide selection of ready-to-plant trees in five- and 15-gallon buckets. All of these are suitable for the climate found in the Santa Clarita Valley and those that Butler suggests here will remain relatively small, under 30 feet tall or so.
"They're good for the small lots everybody has today," she said.

Beyond that, those she suggests here can tolerate the types of soil found in the SCV, as well as the bad watering techniques many homeowners employ, such as shallow watering and over-watering.

But that wouldn't be you, would it?
With the above in mind, the type of tree you plant really comes down to aesthetics. Do you like evergreens or those that drop their leaves every year?

Do you want a splash of color with leaves or flowers? Do you like wispy trees or those with robust limbs and large leaves?
Butler said some people want the full sun in their yard in winter, so trees that drop their leaves work best for them.
Others, who want shade year-round, choose evergreens.

While the choices of deciduous trees available at Green Thumb are not limited to these few suggested by Butler, these are some you can have confidence in: crape myrtle, flowering plum, redbud, robinia and arbutus.

Crape myrtle: This deciduous tree (or shrub) grows to 12 to 25 feet high and 6 to 12 feet wide. It blooms in the summer and its flower color varies by species. This tree needs to dry out between waterings.

Flowering plum (purple pony): This tree grows to 10 feet high and wide and has deep purple foliage throughout the growing season. The spring blossoms are pink. This tree is a good choice for lawns or near streets or walkways.

Redbud: The Eastern Redbud grows to 25 feet high and wide. It is drought tolerant and produces pink flowers in the spring. The Western Redbud only grows to 18 feet high and wide. It is also drought tolerant and produces magenta flowers in the spring.
Robinia: This moderate- to fast-growing tree has rose-pink flowers in the spring and is very drought-tolerant.

Arbutus: This "strawberry tree" produces fruit that looks, to some, like strawberries. Large, sturdy leaves resemble those of Laurel.
Among other evergreens, Butler recommends Evergreen pear, Australian Willow, Photinia and Privet.

Evergreen pear: This is an evergreen tree that remains less than 30 feet tall. It has glossy-green leaves, and produces small white flowers in the spring. Little to no fruit is produced but are brown and berry-sized when they do appear.

Australian willow: This evergreen rows to 30 feet high and 20 feet wide. Branches sweep up and out, with leaves six inches long and hanging down, which gives it a weeping willow effect. This is a trouble-free street or patio tree, but it needs good drainage.

Photinia: This evergreen grows to 15 feet high and 15 feet wide. While older leaves are green, newer-growth leaves are reddish. This tree is drought-tolerant, works well near walkways and makes a good privacy screen.

Privet: An evergreen tree growing to 25 feet high and wide, it will tolerate most soils. It is also a good choice near walkways and makes a good privacy screen.

Planting
Note: Soil conditions in the SCV vary, but if your soil has too much hard clay and/or rocks to dig easily with a shovel, you might need to chop into it with a pick-mattock and use water to soften it.

You should locate your tree where it gets at least four to five hours of direct sunlight each day, Butler said. The hole for your tree should be twice as wide as the container the tree's root ball comes in.

You dig the hole only as deep as necessary to have a slight mound of the root ball above soil level when you are done. This allows settling over time.

It is not a good idea to cut into a tight root ball to loosen things up, as this causes unnecessary root damage.

Add about 20 percent soil amendment to the natural soil. You can raise a ring of mounded soil around the edges of your hole to serve as a water-holding basin and tamp it down with your hands.

Butler said it is a good idea to keep the soil clear of grass from the tree trunk out to the drip line. She also recommended using SuperThrive when you first plant your tree to stimulate root growth. This can be mixed into your first watering.

Watering
Butler said you should water your tree heavily after you plant it, then let it dry out a bit. "Give it a really good drink every day for a week, then cut it off," she said. And, when you do water, water deep. "Make the roots look for water," she said. "The deeper the root ball, the better the top growth. The bottom takes care of the top."

She said that if you water shallowly the roots stay shallow and the tree becomes "unhappy and stressed." Then you get diseases.
Butler said you should also pay attention to the weather. "When it's mild you don't need to water hardly at all," she said.

Green Thumb International is located at 23734 Newhall Ave., Newhall, CA 91321. Call (661) 259-1071 or visit www.greenthumb.com.