I'm here to remind you that great restaurant atmosphere exists in Canyon Country. You just have to look around the corner to find it. Specifically, that corner is at Sierra Highway and Dolan Way, just north of Soledad Canyon Road. Here you will find eye-pleasing furnishings, a peaceful, romantic setting, an extensive wine selection and truly fine dining at reasonable prices.

I'm talking about Piccola Trattoria, the Italian restaurant you shouldn't have missed.

Carmelo Terranova, who manages the restaurant with his sister Rosella, and shares some of the work with his other sister Graziella, said Piccola Trattoria is definitely a family business, which starts with owner Angie Caruso. "All of Angie's children work here on a daily basis," he said.

Terranova noted that the establishment was first opened as Angie's Italian Market and Deli in 1993, and gradually expanded its dining facilities, opening the restaurant aspect of the business about six years ago. During the day it's the deli (but you can dine from the restaurant's "lunch" menu) and in the evening it's Piccola Trattoria.

"We specialize in Sicilian Italian cuisine," Terranova said. "There's a lot of seafood, and fresh fish daily." There's always something new in the fish department, be it Alaskan halibut, orange roughy, swordfish, etc.

"We make our pasta fresh daily, in-house," he added. That includes homemade raviolis. "We have traditional pastas, but often with a twist, such as rigatoni with black truffles."

The focaccia bread is also made fresh daily and served to all tables.

Terranova emphasized the wide menu selection, including Ossobuco, which is a veal shank served on the bone. Steaks are specialties as well, including rib eye, New York and fillet. There are veal chops and rack of veal, too.

The beautiful covered patio is an excellent place for a romantic dinner in the evening and the atmosphere inside and outside Piccola Trattoria is warm and inviting, with rich woods, burgundy awnings and neat tables covered in white linen.

"We have a nice selection of both Italian and California wines, red and white (bottles at $15 to $150), that go well with any meal," Terranova said.

He added that the restaurant does takeout, catering and private parties. "Make reservations through the website," he said. "And we're linked up on Open Table."

A quick overview of the menu includes soups (Zuppe), Antipasti, Pizza, Paste and Secondi. And the meals work best when taken in the traditional stages, beginning with Antipasti, followed by Paste and then Secondi - and, of course, dessert. Visit the website for the full, elegantly-enticing menu.

For my visit, Terranova had the chef prepare Antipasto Casereccio for two, Spaghetti alla Pescatora and Costello di Agnello al Balsamico - and then brought out dessert as well.

Antipasto Casereccio for two guests ($16.95): Assorted cold cuts, cheese, olives, mixed greens and roasted bell peppers, served with thin, grilled focaccia bread slices. That description doesn't do it justice. The cold cuts included spicy sopressata (salami), Genoa salami and imported prosciutto (cured ham). There were Kalamata olives, oil-cured olives and big green Sicilian olives. The cheese was imported provolone (but can be buffalo mozzarella). The roasted peppers added a rich sweetness, and the olives a nice tang, which complemented the meats well.

Spaghetti alla Pescatora ($16.95): This is spaghetti pasta with shrimp, mussels, clams and calamari in a light and spicy tomato sauce. "It's a very typical Sicilian dish," Terranova said.

In that case I love tradition, because this dish was outstanding. The spaghetti was perfectly cooked, the scallops tender, the calamari mild and the shrimp savory. Even the mussels, which I don't normally go for, were delicious. The hint of spice gave the whole thing an entertaining zest.

Costello di Agnello al Balsamico ($22.25): This is baby rack of lamb chops with white balsamic and mint sauce, served with mashed potatoes, garlic spinach and seasonal vegetables. This dish will make an excellent finish to your series of courses, but might not fill a big eater by itself. However, if flavor alone was filling, this would satisfy several folks. The chops were so tender and the sweet sauce complemented them perfectly. The potatoes were great and the vegetables fresh and tender but firm. The sautéed garlic spinach enhanced it all.

Panno Cotta ($6.50): The incredible texture and sweetness of this amazing dessert befitted its stylish presentation. Whipped cream is cooked into a mousse, then served chilled with fresh strawberries (artfully sculpted) and fresh strawberry sauce. You have to try this!

"All our desserts are homemade," Terranova said. "And our pastry chef does a great chocolate soufflé. A few things are traditional but some are more Sicilian, with a twist."